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Traffic was backed up the mile walk to the subway system that took us from southeastern Beijing to northwestern Beijing. The Zoo sits between the 2nd and 3rd Ring Roads, the series of beltways that signify status in the city. On the subway and streets my foreignness stood out from the crowd. The only other non-Chinese person I saw was a gangly white man who had a hard time getting out of the way of the subway door when the swarms pushed in. The zoo itself was similar; swarms of people but few westerners. Apparently the tourists stick to the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square rather than venture into parts less openly hospitable. They are missing out. I’m used to getting stared at, but it’s worth it to see more of “real” Beijing and not just the westernized portions.
The 20 Yuan entrance fee (about $3) included the special panda exhibit, though the aquarium inside the zoo carried a separate fee of 120 Yuan (~$18). As an aquarium nut I was eager to see how this one compared. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was well done. It featured a huge tank with many sturgeon, the largest stretching up to 10 feet long. The coral reef area was on par with the best aquariums. The jellyfish area – two big rooms with many tanks of red and blue lighting – rivaled that of the Monterey Aquarium in California. Unfortunately, the dolphin and sea lion shows were boring; the worst I’ve ever seen. I was later told that most people in Beijing wouldn’t have seen any other for contrast (I’ve seen dozens), so wouldn’t be as critical as I.
The zoo itself was at best mediocre. While they had some interesting animals they mostly were in old school cages. The star attractions – the pandas – turned out to be rather depression; huddling near doors with bars waiting to get out of the limelight. After a while it was back to the subway station, again swamped with people, to head back for a rest. The next day was set for a long day trip to Xi’an, where the terra cotta warriors awaited our awe.
David J. Kent is a science traveler and the author of Lincoln: The Man Who Saved America, in Barnes and Noble stores now. His previous books include Tesla: The Wizard of Electricity (2013) and Edison: The Inventor of the Modern World (2016) and two e-books: Nikola Tesla: Renewable Energy Ahead of Its Time and Abraham Lincoln and Nikola Tesla: Connected by Fate.
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Hot White Snow 
Wow! I loved your PANDAS
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Thanks!
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You’re welcome!
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I remembered my favorite cartoon movie “Kung Fu Panda”. The pandason your photo were cute.
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I commend your willingness to forego the tourist thing in exchange for something a little more “real.” I suspect a zoo can actually provide some amount of cultural insight (as can public transportation). I’m also thinking that you really should write an aquarium guide.
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As a rather white-bread American, It does make a difference to spend as much time as I can away from the tourist traps (though I do those as well). Admittedly the aquarium was the main draw for me. I’ve seen pandas here in the US but seeing them (and so many of them) in China was interesting, but I suppose to really see them I have to get outside the zoo into their native habitat, which I haven’t done. In fact, I’m not sure how many actually live “in the wild” as they seem to be in managed areas because of their sparsity.
And yes, I need to write an aquarium guide. I originally had planned to do a “Aquariums of the World” book but I’m leaning toward a more of a social questioning of the role of aquariums, especially the large animal shows that some places have now dispensed with. In any case, I have several books lined up ahead of any aquarium book.
Nice to see you again. I haven’t seen any postings from you in a while. Hope all is okay.
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Asian zoos can provide a sharp contrast to American views regarding the treatment of large animals. Among the most appalling things I’ve ever seen was a bear in a Hokkaido cultural museum. I can see some purpose to inspirational and/or educational displays. But personally, I welcome seeing the practice of simply amusing ourselves at their expense disappear.
Thank you for the well wishes. Just a little busy… situation warranted starting the annual family and business travel a little early this year. You might have missed my last post. However, something I came across in the hotel room here has inspired maybe writing something tonight — if I don’t head out to Sangenjaya instead.
(-_^)
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I’m rethinking a lot of things these days. And I’ll check out your last post as it seems likely I did miss it somehow. Please do write more. Your work is a real treasure. Would love to hear more about Sangenjaya.
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